Your mobile home’s skirting has seen better days—warped panels, rust stains, or maybe that corner the wind keeps peeling back. Replacing it isn’t just about curb appeal; damaged skirting invites pests, lets cold air creep under your floors, and can even violate local codes. The good news? With the right approach, you can tackle this weekend project and save hundreds in labor costs.
This guide walks you through every step of replacing mobile home skirting, from choosing materials that won’t buckle next winter to techniques for handling that stubborn low spot where water always pools. You’ll learn how to avoid common pitfalls that force homeowners to redo their work within months.
Choose Your Skirting Material Wisely for Long-Term Value
Vinyl skirting dominates mobile home parks for good reason—it costs $0.50-$2 per square foot, snaps together without special tools, and comes pre-finished in colors that won’t fade for decades. Standard panels measure 16 inches tall and interlock like puzzle pieces, making DIY installation manageable for most homeowners. The smooth surface resists dirt buildup and only needs occasional cleaning with mild detergent.
Metal options split into two camps: lightweight aluminum for coastal areas and heavy-duty galvanized steel for high-traffic zones. Expect to pay $2-$5 per square foot, but you’ll get panels that shrug off lawn mower strikes and basketball impacts. The ribbed design adds strength while creating clean shadow lines that hide minor imperfections in installation.
Concrete and brick create permanent foundation appearances at $5-$15 per square foot. Precast concrete panels deliver superior insulation and pest resistance, while brick veneer matches traditional home aesthetics. Both require professional installation due to weight and complexity, but they can increase your home’s resale value significantly.
Foam skirting combines rigid foam backing with durable facing, achieving R-values between 4-8. This premium option cuts heating bills significantly in extreme climates but demands precise measurements and cutting. If you live where winters regularly drop below freezing, the energy savings could justify the higher upfront cost within just a few years.
Inspect Before You Buy to Avoid Costly Surprises
Check Structural Issues Before Ordering Panels
Walk your home’s perimeter with a measuring tape and flashlight. Note any water stains, pest holes, or soft spots in the existing framework. Measure ground clearance every 4 feet—mobile homes settle unevenly, and you’ll need these exact measurements when ordering panels. Critical mistake to avoid: Don’t assume your home has consistent clearance all the way around; most vary by 2-4 inches from corner to corner.
Prep the Ground for Lasting Results
Scrape away all vegetation within 12 inches of the home’s edge. Fill low spots with compacted gravel and install landscape fabric where weeds typically invade. This prep work prevents new skirting from warping or pulling away within months. Pay special attention to drainage—water pooling against skirting causes the fastest deterioration.
Verify Local Rules Before Cutting a Single Panel
Call your building department Monday morning. Some areas mandate specific ventilation ratios or restrict certain materials. If you’re in an HOA, get written approval for your chosen color and style—replacing white vinyl with charcoal gray could trigger fines. Save time by gathering requirements upfront rather than redoing work later.
Remove Old Skirting Safely Without Damaging Your Home
Start at your main access panel and work clockwise. Vinyl panels lift straight up and out of the bottom track—if they’re brittle from sun exposure, they’ll snap rather than bend. Metal skirting often requires drilling out rusted screws; keep a magnet handy to collect metal shards. For concrete skirting, rent a demolition hammer—but check for asbestos first in older homes.
Pro tip: Take photos as you remove panels. These reference shots help when installing the new system, especially around complex areas like steps or utility connections. Document where wires and pipes enter the home to avoid accidental damage during replacement.
Install Framework First for Rock-Solid Results
Set the Ground Track Properly to Prevent Future Problems
Begin installation on the home’s longest, straightest wall. Drive ground spikes every 24-36 inches, checking level constantly. For sloped areas, step the track in 2-inch increments rather than trying to force panels to follow ground contours. This is critical: Never skip the ground track—installing panels directly against soil leads to premature rot and pest entry.
Mount the Top Rail Correctly to Avoid Warranty Issues
The top back rail carries most of the skirting’s weight. Position it 1/4 inch below the home’s bottom edge to allow for thermal expansion. Pre-drill holes every 16 inches, but don’t fully tighten screws until you’ve test-fit several panels—the rail might need minor adjustments. Screwing panels directly into your home’s siding creates moisture traps and voids most warranties.
Cut and Fit Panels Precisely for Professional-Looking Results
Measure each section twice—mobile homes rarely have consistent ground clearance. Account for 1/4-inch expansion gaps on each side, more in extreme climates. For vinyl, score with a utility knife and snap along a straight edge. Metal demands tin snips or a circular saw with a metal blade—wear long sleeves to prevent nasty cuts from sharp edges.
Test-fit each panel before final installation. Mark adjustments with chalk rather than pencil—chalk marks remain visible even when panels get dusty. Keep spare panels from your original order for future repairs; color matching becomes difficult years later.
Install Panels Like a Pro for Weatherproof Protection
Start in the least visible area to perfect your technique. For vinyl systems, slide the panel’s bottom edge into the ground track, then tilt the top into the back rail. You’ll hear a distinct click when properly seated. Metal panels require screws every 12-16 inches along both rails—don’t overtighten or you’ll warp the material.
Corner trick: Use pre-formed corner pieces or create precise 45-degree miter cuts. Poor corners scream amateur installation and become the first failure point in high winds. Seal all joints with butyl tape for maximum weatherproofing, especially in rainy climates.
Add Proper Ventilation to Prevent Moisture Damage
Install vents at a ratio of 1 square foot per 150 square feet of enclosed space. Position vents on opposite walls to create cross-ventilation—this prevents the musty, damp crawl space smell that plagues poorly ventilated homes. In humid climates, consider adding extra vents to combat moisture buildup.
Place access panels at every utility connection and crawl space entry. Standard 24×32 inch panels fit most needs, but oversize panels make future repairs easier. Add weather-stripping around access panels to maintain the seal while allowing easy opening when needed.
Handle Tricky Situations Like an Experienced Installer
Fix Uneven Ground Without Compromising Protection
For hills or dips, create stepped sections using additional ground track pieces. Cut panels at angles to follow contours while maintaining structural support. Fill low spots with compacted gravel before installing skirting—water pooling rots the bottom edge within two seasons. Never try to force panels to follow dramatic ground changes; stepped sections look more professional.
Integrate Skirting Around Steps and Porches Correctly
Custom-cut filler pieces bridge gaps around existing structures. Maintain door swing clearances and step access—skirting that blocks your main entrance reduces home value and creates code violations. Seal all gaps between skirting and permanent structures with quality caulk to prevent pest entry.
Maintain Your Investment for Maximum Lifespan
Schedule Quarterly Inspections to Catch Problems Early
Walk the perimeter every three months, checking for loose fasteners, impact damage, or pest holes. After severe weather, inspect immediately—high winds can loosen panels before you notice interior drafts. Look for signs of water pooling near the foundation that may indicate drainage issues requiring attention.
Follow a Simple Cleaning Schedule for Lasting Appearance
Wash vinyl annually with mild detergent and a soft brush. Metal skirting needs rust treatment and fresh paint every 3-5 years. Concrete benefits from pressure washing and sealer application every 2-3 years. Winter prep: Check skirting before first freeze. Ensure vents aren’t blocked by leaves and access panels seal properly—you’ll thank yourself when temperatures drop.
Budget Reality Check for Smart Financial Planning
A single-wide home typically needs 500-800 square feet of skirting. DIY vinyl runs $250-$1,600 total, while hiring pros doubles those numbers. Metal jumps to $1,000-$4,000 professionally installed. Factor in tool costs—buying a circular saw and level adds $200-$300, but you’ll use them for future projects.
Long-term math: Spending 40% more on insulated foam saves $200-$400 annually in heating costs, paying for the upgrade within 3-5 years in cold climates. Order 10% extra material after measuring every section—you’ll avoid the frustration of running out mid-project.
Avoid These Costly Mistakes That Force Reinstallation
Don’t measure once and order everything—ground clearance varies by 2-4 inches around most homes. Never skip permits—some areas require inspections for material changes. Getting caught means tearing off completed sections for code compliance. Avoid cheap fasteners—those $0.10 screws will rust through in two years, causing panels to sag and creating gaps for pests.
Your new skirting should last 15-25 years with proper installation and basic maintenance. The key is taking accurate measurements, choosing materials suited to your climate, and not rushing the framework installation. Start on a cool morning, work systematically, and you’ll transform your home’s appearance while protecting its underbelly from weather and wildlife.
